A wheelchair accessible journey across Japan

Japan had been top of the list of places I wanted to go for a very long time, But it was always something that was for “some day” rather the next trip – it would be an expensive once-in-a-lifetime holiday that I wanted to be perfect, it just felt like such a daunting task to organise. But after our train trip around Europe went so smoothly, I decided it was finally time and booked the flights. Work commitments ruled out April’s cherry blossoms, and I didn’t fancy the cooler temperatures of autumn, so I settled on late May.

In the months before the trip, I spent so much time planning – it became a little bit of an obsession. I worked out exactly what we wanted to see and I planned how we would get from place to place. I booked hotels for every night – even though I like the flexibility of choosing somewhere to stay on the way, booking in advance, especially in cities is more reliable and usually cheaper. Accessible rooms in Japan are often called “universal rooms”, with a range of accessibility features. I found they were often available to book directly on booking websites, and even when they weren’t listed separately, most hotels offered me an accessible room when I messaged them.

I also invested in new bags for my wheelchair. When we travelled around Europe, carrying a rucksack on my lap had been really uncomfortable and awkward. The two bags that attached directly to my wheelchair meant that I could carry everything I needed without it getting in the way.

And then, after years of dreaming and months of planning, we were off — and Japan didn’t disappoint. Over the next 15 days we saw so many different things. It was the extreme contrasts, sitting side-by-side that made Japan unforgettable – one of my favourite places I’ve been.

There were pockets of absolute calm and tranquillity just minutes away from busy city streets. One morning we sat outside Meiji Shrine in the forested parkland, surrounded by tall trees and soft light, and it was hard to believe we were in the middle of a huge city. By lunchtime we were pushing our way through the crowded streets of Harajuku, with its bright shopfronts, loud music, and that fun, slightly chaotic atmosphere lined with micro animal cafés. By evening we were waiting at the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing in Shibuya, watching hundreds of people move in perfect, organised chaos. We ate ice cream by the beach in Odaiba, looking out over the water — and all of this happened before we even left Tokyo.

The contrasts continued when we travelled further into Japan. Sitting in front of Lake Kawaguchiko with an ice cream and a coffee, looking straight at Mount Fuji, was one of those moments that felt different to anything I’d experienced before. I’ve seen plenty of impressive mountains and views, but there was something about Fuji that held my attention completely. I just couldn’t look away. The morning we spent at the lakeside café, waiting for the wisps of cloud to clear and reveal the perfect view, was unexpectedly one of my favourite moments of the whole trip.

In Kyoto, warm traditional lanterns lined the streets at night, giving everything a soft, golden glow. And just a short train ride away in Osaka, the neon signs and retro shopfronts felt like stepping into a completely different version of Japan — louder, brighter, and full of energy.

There was something else though – Japan felt different to anywhere I’ve been. The whole culture and atmosphere had a sense of respect and calm – , there was no shouting in the streets, no one running at stations, minimal talking on public transport. I didn’t see a single bin on the streets of Tokyo, yet everywhere was spotless. People simply take their rubbish away with them or return it to the shop they bought it from. Small shrines were scattered around — tucked between buildings, beside pavements, in quiet corners — and it felt like respect was just a part of everyday life.

And of course, the food! I think the Nishiki Market in Kyoto was Matt’s favourite place – he seemed determined to eat as many animals on sticks as he could. I’m vegetarian, so before we went there I was little concerned that maybe the restaurants might not be as good for me. But the food was amazing – I found plenty of vegetarian food and vegan restaurants . The vegetarian okonomiyaki, a traditional Japanese dish made from cabbage, this at Lake Kawaguchiko was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten I loved the sweets. Mochi and dangos are both made with rice flour and are less sweet than you might expect, but really moorish.

I love to travel, but often I feel like I have to fit around the place — finding my own ways to make sure I can experience it the way I want to. In Japan, especially in Tokyo, I didn’t feel like that at all. Accessibility wasn’t something I had to work around or plan for; it was simply part of the city. Everything felt integrated, natural, and thought‑through. I didn’t have to think about how I would do anything — I could just do it.

Accessibility on the Metro was excellent – the gap between the platform and the train was very small, the height difference was rarely more than about 5 cm. We didn’t need a ramp, although staff often appeared and put one out anyway. There were so many staff around, always ready to help, that if you needed assistance with anything you would be absolutely fine. On board the trains, signs showed the positions of lifts at the next station

We downloaded Suica travel cards onto our phones from the “Travel Card” section of the Wallet app. There are machines at stations where you can buy individual tickets or top up physical Suica cards, but most of them require cash, and using paper tickets at the gates is more hassle. With Suica on our phones, we could just tap in and out at stations and top up instantly with Apple Pay.

Matt tapped both our phones at the gates, and occasionally he held them too close together so it didn’t register both of us properly – the notifications that popped up every time the phone was tapped were really useful because they confirmed whether the Suica card had actually been read, so we knew straight away if one of us needed to tap again.

Suica works on most trains and buses throughout Japan, so once it was set up, we didn’t have to think about tickets again.

Google Maps navigation worked really well for getting to stations in Tokyo. Stations tend to have multiple entrances, and with the wheelchair accessible routes option selected, it always took us to the wheelchair‑accessible entrance.

I was struck by how accessible the city was. Information boards often included step‑free routes, and even at historical temples and shrines, ramps and accessibility features were clearly marked rather than hidden away. There were tactile paths throughout stations and much of the city – bright yellow raised tiles designed to help people with visual impairments navigate safely. The dotted tiles act as warnings near hazards like platform edges or stairs, while the long bar‑shaped tiles show a safe route to follow. I actually found the directional ones really helpful for finding lifts. It felt like accessibility was built into the city, not added as an afterthought.

After spending a few days in Tokyo, we travelled around Japan for a while. We’d originally planned to store our suitcase at Tokyo Station — the idea was to take four days of clothes in my wheelchair bags, then swap them for clean clothes when we passed through the station again.

But after speaking to someone at the baggage desk, it became clear our complicated plan was completely unnecessary. Large suitcases can be taken on the bullet train, but only if you reserve an oversized luggage space in advance — which is why most people use the luggage delivery service instead. It works incredibly well.

For about £15, we had our suitcase delivered straight to our hotel in Kyoto, and the best part was that you could choose a delivery date up to seven days away for the same price. The service is available all over Japan, and most hotels will arrange it for you at reception. Never having to deal with a suitcase while getting on and off trains made everything so much easier.

What stayed with me most was the contrast in everything — the way Japan could be calm and busy, old and new, retro and modern, fun and peaceful, all at the same time. One moment we were surrounded by forest and soft light, and the next we were in neon streets full of noise and colour. There was nature and beauty everywhere, even in the middle of the city, and the food was a constant source of small joy: ice creams by the water, mochi and dango, vegetarian dishes that were far better than I expected. But the thing that made the biggest difference was the freedom that came from how accessible everything was. I didn’t have to plan around the city or find my own workarounds — I could just move through Japan the same way everyone else did.Before the trip, I thought it would be a once‑in‑a‑lifetime holiday, but even after everything we did, I still feel like there’s so much more to experience — and that’s why I know I’ll go back.