I travelled on the Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano in June 2025.

I booked my tickets about three months in advance, and some of my preferred dates were already sold out. Wheelchair spaces had to be booked by email.

I was using an Interrail pass, which meant I only had to pay the booking fee rather than the full ticket price. The wheelchair space and the accessible toilet were in the first‑class carriage. A wheelchair user with a second‑class ticket would be upgraded for free, but any accompanying passenger would need to buy a first‑class ticket.

Boarding was very straightforward. I waited at the designated point on the platform about half an hour before departure, and staff helped me board with the mobile ramp. There was no need to inform them in advance.

Inside, the panoramic carriages were laid out with groups of seats facing each other: two across on each side of the aisle. In the accessible carriage, the designated wheelchair space was at one end, with a fixed seat facing it. On the opposite side was a fixed luggage rack. Even when empty, the frame blocked part of the window, so unlike the other seats in the carriage, the wheelchair space only had a clear view from one side. The panoramic windows themselves were excellent, with uninterrupted glass right up to the top of the carriage.

Cases were stacked high on the luggage rack, which meant I effectively only had one window I could see out of. This improved slightly when the top cases fell off — narrowly missing me. Early in the journey, the train crossed the UNESCO‑listed Landwasser Viaduct. Inevitably, the views were on the opposite side of the carriage. Passengers stood up along the aisle to take photos, so I couldn’t see out of the windows further down either. I caught a few glimpses, but I was disappointed not to see it properly.

After this, I spoke to the staff about the luggage rack. They moved the cases straight away, which did improve things significantly. The journey into Italy was so interesting — in terms of scenery, I actually preferred this scenic train to the previous one we had taken. Watching the landscapes change as we left the Alps and descended into Italy was fascinating.
I left the train with mixed feelings about the experience. I’m really glad I did this journey — it was spectacular. But I also felt a little sad. The wheelchair space was in a spot that clearly wouldn’t have been acceptable for any other passenger, but had been considered good enough for me, and that did take something away from the experience.