A Wheelchair Accessible Swiss Train Adventure

Arriving in Switzerland

Zermatt was the third stop on our inter‑rail trip. We travelled on an ICE train from Freiburg into Switzerland, then made a couple of changes to get to Zermatt. The station in Freiburg had called ahead, as it was a train that required a boarding ramp. I always feel a slight wave of anxiety as we approach a station, never quite trusting that the ramp will actually be waiting. But there was no need to worry — the journey couldn’t have gone more smoothly. The ramp was there, the transfer was easy, and the other trains had only a small height difference from the platform. There were staff everywhere offering help and pointing us towards the next connection.

First Impressions of Zermatt

We arrived in Zermatt mid‑afternoon, less than four hours after leaving Freiburg. We immediately went in search of a caffeine fix and found a little bar on the main street, where we sat outside drinking cappuccinos and taking in the feel of the place. The shops, restaurants and bars were mainly clustered along one main street, with hotels on the smaller streets behind. There were no cars, but there were a few small electric taxi vehicles outside the station.

Exploring the Town

With its cobblestone streets and many shops with steps at the entrance, it wasn’t exactly the most wheelchair‑accessible town I’ve ever visited — but there were plenty of restaurants with step‑free access and outdoor seating areas, so I didn’t feel restricted or confined to just one or two places. We spent the evening wandering the main street, soaking up the alpine atmosphere and experiencing my first Swiss cheese fondue.

Taking the Gornergrat Railway

The next morning, we took the Gornergrat rack railway up to the top of the mountain. We didn’t get off at any of the stops on the way — one of them has mountain goats that I would have loved to see, but it was closed that day. Access to the train was very easy, and there was space on either side to sit and enjoy the views. I hadn’t quite appreciated how steep the train could climb. At first, I positioned my wheelchair facing forward and put the brakes on, but as the train started to ascend, I began to slide backwards. After repositioning myself, it was fine, and before long we were at the summit.

At the Summit

Immediately outside the station, there was a flat area with impressive views of the Matterhorn. A lift took us up to a visitor centre and café. The visitor centre was interesting, but the views from the café terrace were stunning. Sitting outside with another cappuccino, looking at that iconic peak, I felt a little awestruck. That’s the magical thing about travel — you can see something in a hundred photos, but actually seeing it yourself is something else entirely.

There was a platform area right at the summit, but the path to get there was very steep and rocky — definitely not wheelchair accessible. Somehow my boyfriend managed to drag my wheelchair up to the platform. The 360° view was amazing, but the view of the Matterhorn wasn’t any better than from the café. In hindsight, having a second cappuccino might have been a better use of time.

Heading Towards Italy

The next day, we began our journey towards Italy. We had decided to take scenic trains, as it would give us a chance to see more of Switzerland as we travelled. The Glacier Express took us to Chur, and after an overnight stopover we continued on the Bernina Express into Italy.

As we travelled, we watched the landscapes shift as we crossed Switzerland. As my boyfriend talked about memories of family skiing holidays from his childhood, I realised that this was so much more than an interesting way to get from A to B for me — it was a way of seeing places that would otherwise be completely inaccessible. I think a big part of travel — and life in general — with a wheelchair is about finding your own ways to experience as much as you can, rather than accepting that something isn’t for you.